
Big wave surfing is the ultimate extreme sport, where professional surfers ride massive ocean waves that tower over 20 feet high—and sometimes reach heights of 80 feet or more. It’s not just a physical challenge, but a mental and emotional one. For many surfers, chasing big waves is more than a sport; it’s a lifestyle built on passion, preparation, and deep respect for the ocean.
In this complete guide to big wave surfing, we explore the history, best surf spots, famous surfers, safety gear, training techniques, and the rising role of women in the sport. Whether you’re a beginner curious about big waves or an experienced surfer chasing adrenaline, this article offers insights that will fuel your stoke.
What Is Big Wave Surfing?
Big wave surfing is defined by riding waves at least 20 feet (6 meters) high. However, elite surfers often target swells of 50 to 80 feet, especially at world-famous surf breaks like Nazaré, Mavericks, and Jaws. These waves are fast, powerful, and often break over shallow reefs or rock slabs—making them incredibly dangerous.
Why Is Big Wave Surfing So Challenging?
- Wave size & power: The sheer energy of these waves can break surfboards and bones.
- Hold-downs: Surfers can be held underwater for 30+ seconds, sometimes by multiple waves.
- Ocean conditions: Swell direction, wind, and tide must align perfectly.
- Entry difficulty: Many big waves require jet ski assistance or highly advanced paddling skills.
Top Big Wave Surfing Destinations
Looking for the best big wave surf spots in the world? These five legendary locations attract the most fearless surfers on Earth:
1. Nazaré, Portugal
- Wave height: Up to 100 feet
- Why it’s unique: An underwater canyon magnifies Atlantic swells into record-breaking monsters.
- Famous ride: Rodrigo Koxa’s 80-foot wave (Guinness World Record)
2. Jaws (Peʻahi), Maui, Hawaii
- Wave height: Up to 70 feet
- Best season: November to March
- Known for: Explosive power and tow-in surfing history
3. Mavericks, California, USA
- Wave height: 50–60 feet
- Conditions: Cold, sharky, and heavy
- Surfer’s tip: Not for beginners—Mavericks has claimed lives
4. Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania, Australia
- Unique feature: “Steps” in the wave face make it dangerously unpredictable
- Wave size: 30–50 feet
- Only accessible by boat or jet ski
5. Teahupoʻo, Tahiti
- Wave height: 20–30 feet
- Danger: Shallow reef break with extremely thick lips
- Known as: One of the “heaviest” waves on Earth
The Evolution of Big Wave Surfing Gear
Modern big wave surfing wouldn’t be possible without innovative equipment. Here’s what keeps surfers safe:
- Tow-in boards: Shorter, heavier boards used with jet skis for tow-in sessions
- Inflatable vests: Activated underwater to help surfers surface faster
- Helmets & leashes: Extra protection during wipeouts
- Carbon-reinforced fins: Provide extra grip at high speed
Training Like a Big Wave Surfer
To survive the world’s biggest surf, elite athletes undergo rigorous physical and mental training:
Physical Conditioning
- Breath-hold exercises: Many big wave surfers can hold their breath for 3–5 minutes
- Strength training: Focus on shoulders, core, and legs
- Endurance: Long-distance swimming and running are common
Mental Preparation
- Meditation & visualization: Stay calm under pressure
- Apnea training: Simulate underwater stress in a controlled environment
- Focus drills: Improve reaction times and decision-making
Women Changing the Game in Big Wave Surfing
The world of big wave surfing is no longer a boys’ club. Surfers like Maya Gabeira, Justine Dupont, and Keala Kennelly are redefining what’s possible.
- Maya Gabeira: Rode a 73.5-foot wave at Nazaré in 2020 (women’s world record)
- Justine Dupont: Multiple WSL wins and considered one of the most versatile surfers today
- Keala Kennelly: First woman to win “Barrel of the Year” at the XXL Awards
As women gain recognition in competitions and sponsorships, they are inspiring the next generation of female surfers to charge hard and aim high.
Competitive Big Wave Events
Professional big wave surfing has earned a dedicated fanbase, thanks to thrilling competitions like:
1. WSL Big Wave Tour
- Locations: Jaws, Nazaré, and Mavericks
- Scoring: Judges rate wave height, difficulty, control, and style
2. Eddie Aikau Invitational
- Where: Waimea Bay, Hawaii
- Unique feature: Only held when waves exceed 20 feet Hawaiian scale (40+ feet face)
- Named after: Eddie Aikau, a legendary Hawaiian waterman
Big Wave Surfing and Ocean Awareness
Many big wave surfers are passionate ocean advocates. Spending hours in the water gives them a firsthand view of climate change, coral bleaching, and plastic pollution. Surfers like Greg Long and Ramon Navarro are vocal about marine conservation, urging surfers and fans to protect the places they love.
Sustainability in Surfing
- Eco-friendly boards: Some surfers use recycled or bio-based materials
- Plastic-free lifestyles: Avoid single-use items on surf trips
- Ocean clean-ups: Community-led efforts are common at surf beaches
Final Thoughts on Big Wave Surfing
Big wave surfing is more than riding the biggest waves—it’s about dedication, discipline, and harmony with the ocean. It’s a sport that humbles even the best athletes and rewards those who prepare mentally, physically, and spiritually.
Whether you’re watching from the cliffs at Nazaré or dreaming of surfing Jaws one day, big wave surfing captures the raw energy of nature and the endless drive of human courage. The waves will always be bigger than us—but that’s what makes riding them unforgettable.